Itiya Studio
How to draft your own block pattern!
How to draft your own block pattern!
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How to draft your own block pattern!
A) Introduction
What is a block pattern? The block pattern is the most basic one, which include the most important body measurements of your model (such as: neck, bust, waist, hips, the lengths of the top and bottom parts of each and more. It even includes the gap between the nipples!)
The block pattern is the most accurate representation of the body in its flat form, in a tight fitting dress shape (please view images for examples) which can afterwards be manipulated to create a custom pattern, wether simpler or more complicated - which is why it is highly useful!
Level: One can manipulate or adapt the pattern to their own needs if they have some basic sewing knowledge, therefore, the intermediate tailors and seamstresses will benefit from it the most. More info about patterns view under the Glossary in section D.
B) Structure & dates
As we get to know each other, I will be able to follow the pace of each student. The course is built from two sessions:
Session 1 (4 hours) - Taking the measurements of your model. This will have to be you! We will do some simple calculations in order to base the pattern on and after that we will start sketching!!!! View below for the list of materials needed.
Session 2 (4 hours) - In this session we will cut the pattern from calico and test its accuracy on your body. We will go over one basic manipulation technique, such as: making a pencil skirt/ making a basic princess line top/making a cowl top/a t shirt (the options are literally endless), or any basic design you will want to practice. I will share some useful learning resources so you can further develop what you learned.
Wednesdays starting from 19th of Feb 10:00 - 14:00
Saturdays starting from 20th of Feb 14:00 - 18:00
Friends celebration - fun way to spend a birthday or a celebration together! Individually bookable, each purchase valid for one person, group up to 4 friends. If you'd like to make this as one session we can do so as a 6 hour day session and you are more than welcome to bring in food as i have a microwave in the studio and a dining table.
Dates to be coordinated via email at itiyastudio@gmail.com.
As my schedule is quite flexible, we don't have to have consecutive weeks if this doesn't work out for you, or, we can find other days. Email the address mentioned above for coordinating this.
C) Materials
For this course you will need to bring:
- A calculator (if you don't have a smartphone!)
- A notepad for your notes.
I will provide the rest of the materials (such as calico, pattern paper, scissors, tape etc) but if you have your own a pattern master, things will go quicker, and we won’t waste unnecessary time!
D) Glossary
What is a Pattern? A pattern is the term used to call the paper pieces each garment uses, so the seamstress knows how to cut the fabric. The pattern pieces are shaped differently according to the design, and the fabric is then cut and assembled by sewing (and many other tricks), to form the garment you’re after. All patterns can be used several times by the way!
What is Pattern-making? it's its own separate field of knowledge to sewing, one does not need to know how to make a pattern to know how to sew it but one needs to know how to sew in order to make a pattern. One can also buy a ready made pattern and adjust it to need with some basic knowledge if the focus is to sew! There are 2 general methods to pattern-make: drafting a block pattern and draping on the mannequin. The pre bought patterns often are somewhat like a block pattern, that allow space for a variety of body types within that specific general size. A good pattern is highly valuable and is really worth keeping. How do you know they are good quality? first of all, if the pieces do not match. Often times a trained pattern maker can see easily by looking on the pattern pieces that they won't end up looking like the image of the garment, once sewn. So, a way to perfect one's pattern is to test it with a toile. A good trick is to include notes on your pattern (such as an image of the model wearing the final product or a note that says "this pattern fits X").
What is a toile? A toile is a test run of your pattern on a cheap fabric such as calico but not restricted to. The toile can use any relevant material that has the same qualities as the one you end up using, such as similar elasticity, similar “body”. The toile helps you save money and time by avoiding making mistakes on your expensive material, it is used to visualise your design better by fitting it on a person, checking there's enough space for movement and apply changes; it is an opportunity to finesse anything without needing to take too many risks or the opportunity to change your design. Not everyone loves using toiles, such as those whose design approach is informed by their mistakes and love experimenting, etc.
What is Grading? Grading is another advanced form of pattern-making whereby one changes the size of an existing pattern to a bigger one. This is a highly technical skill and is really great for people with spatial understanding, an imaginative brain and requires the use of a calculator.
E) Terms and Conditions:
I will fully refund you if you cancel the course 72 hours before the course by emailing me to itiyastudio@gmail.com.
Please read through all the above info to avoid misunderstandings because you may be taking a place of someone else who can benefit from it.
You will be entering my private studio where I make my own creations and manage my business. You are allowed to take photos, but, please do not take anything away from my studio except for your own work.
This class will be taught by myself, Itiya, the designer and maker of Itiya Studio.
If you have a friend that wants to join the course with you, please let me know and I’ll give you both a 10% discount! If this is you email me at itiyastudio@gmail.com.
Location: This is a physical course taking place in my London studio. Closest underground station is Tottenham Hale. Exact address will be emailed after purchase has been completed.
If this course isn't exactly what you’re looking for, we have more openings, some technical and others, creativity-focused. Go to the courses page!
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